Kuşadası
is set in a superb gulf, on the site of a settlement
founded by Ionians and identified as ancient Neapolis.
In the vicinity were the two other Ionian cities
of Phygale and Marathesion, but mighty Ephesus
swapped Marathesion with Samos for Neapolis. Ephesus
and Samos were both part of the Ionian
Confederacy whose council, the Panionion,
was held at the foot of Mount Mycale (today near
Güzelçamlık*) . Following the
Persian, Hellenistic
and Roman domination,
Neapolis was ruled by the Byzantines.
After Ephesus had lost its prior prosperity and
its harbour was totally silted up by the alluvial
deposits of the Cayster river (küçük
Menderes), the Byzantines searched for a new
port and a new road that would be suitable for
trading and chose Neapolis, then renamed Ania,
instead. The town became an important port with
the Greek, Jewish, and Armenian merchants, and
was called Scala Nueva in the 15th century by
the Venetian and Genoese colony of merchants which
had established there. Following the Manzikert
Battle in 1071, the Seljuk
Turks spread widely in Anatolia. During their
decline in 1284, the Aydınoğulları Emirate was
set up in the region and Kuşadası was incorporated
to it in the early 14th century. But the Turks
preferred to live mainly inland on the foothills
near the ancient settlement known as Andızkule.
Ottoman sultan Mehmet
I finally conquered the region of Kuşadası in
1413. The town of Kuşadası took its” present”
form during the early 17th century under Öküz
Mehmet Pasha who was grand vizier under the reign
of sultan Ahmet I and Osman II. Öküz Mehmet Pasha
Caravanserai, Kale içi Bath and Kale içi Mosque,
all built inside the ramparts, date back to this
period. In 1920 the domination of Izmir
and its surroundings, of which Kuşadası, was granted
to Greece by the Treaty of Sèvres. During the
War of Independence
in September 1922, it was taken back by the Turkish
forces and the Treaty of Lausanne (1923) gave
Izmir and its surroudings back to the new Turkish
Republic.
Kuşadası, which means the “Bird Island”, was named
after the small island situated some way off the
harbour where cruise ships and liners draw alongside.
The Ottomans, who renamed it “Güvercin
Ada” (Pigeon Island),
used this strategic island for military purposes,
like the Byzantines who had already built a fortress
to defend themselves against the pirates. Today
Pigeon Island, which is connected to the land
by a sea wall (10 minutes walk from the harbour
area), is the ideal place to enjoy a panoramic
view of Kuşadası sipping a drink in the garden
cafes. Öküz Mehmet Pasha Hanı, the largest
caravanserai
in the Aegean region, is located at the beginning
of Harbour Street near Orient and Grand Bazaar.
Since its restoration in 1967, it has been used
as a hotel and a shopping center, and special
“Turkish nights” are held in the inner court yard
of the building during summer time. Barbaros Hayrettin Street, located
in a pedestrianized precinct, is one of the most
popular area for shopping.
A long waterfront stretches between
the harbour, where a couple of fish retaurants
are located, and the marina. Lots of restaurants
of all kinds, cafes, bars, pubs can be found everywhere
in Kuşadası.
The specialty of the region of Kuşadası, the "çöp
şiş" made of small pieces of lamb
on tiny wooden skewers, is a sort of miniature
şiş kebab.
Today Kuşadası has become a most sophisticated
and well equipped holiday resort. It is an ideal
starting point towards the famous places of interest
of the region: Ephesus,
Miletus, Priene,
Didyma, Aphrodisias,
Pamukkale...
Ferries link Kuşadası to Greek Samos Island whose
coasts can be easily seen from Kalamaki
in the Dilek National Park located
28 km/ 17.5 miles south of Kusadasi.
In the north-east of Dilek Peninsula,
near Güzelçamlık, at the foot
of Mount Mycale (today Mount Samsun) on the site
of ancient Melia stood the Panionion,
a meeting place in Priene’s
lands and under its management, where the cities
of the Ionian Confederacy
held their council and celebrated a yearly festival
(end of summer) called Panionia in the sanctuary
dedicated to Poseidon Heliconios. For the improvement
of their cities, the members would discuss politics,
business, trade, farming processing, art, science
etc... and would share their problems, trying
to find appropriate solutions. The commercial
and cultural influence of these cities spread
over Anatolia where they opened new trading posts.
Excavations conducted in 1913 and 1957-58 have
revealed the remains of a circular wall which
are thought to belong to the Panionion. Also remnants
of Melia’ s rampart walls which protected Panionion
as well as a long thin structure measuring 18x4/
60x13 inches, have been brought to light.
14 km/ 8.7 miles east of Kuşadası and 12 km/ 7.5
miles south of Selçuk
is Çamlık village, famous since
1991 for its Steam Engine Museum
(Buharlı Lokomotif Müzesi) which displays one
of the largest steam engine collection in Europe.
Çamlık station was on the former ORC line, the
oldest line in Turkey. As it is located at the
highest and most difficult part of the line, with
steep gradient and sharp curves, the station has
been disused (except for a slow local train operating
between Selçuk and Ortaklar) since the Izmir -
Aydın main line has been following a new route
. The museum also displays two interesting hand
powered quay cranes among other miscellaneous
items.
ŞİRİNCE
Set in the hills 8 kms/ 5 miles above Selçuk,
this picturesque charming village was once named
Kirkince by its Greek inhabitants who settled
here by the end of the 18th century. After the
great exchange of population
following the establishment of the Turkish
Republic, the village was repopulated by Turkish
people who called it Çirkince, a distortion of
Kirkince (which in fact was how the Greeks pronounced
the Turkish name Kırkınca!). As the word Çirkince
means “ugly” in the Turkish
language, the name was finally transformed
in Şirince which means “pretty” and which really
suits the village.
Most of the old Greek houses have been restored
with their original characteristics outside (
wattle and daub technique, projecting upper storey)
and the local Turkish layout and decoration inside,
allowing the place to keep an authentic appearance
and reveal a synthesis of Greco-Turkish culture.
Some of these houses are open to visitors. A nice
stroll will allow to discover the village with
at the top its old church, and enjoy the panoramic
views of the vineyards, peach orchards and olive
groves.
Unusually for Turkey, here the local people make
and sell wine and even invite visitors to taste
their vintage. They also sell other local produces
such as olive oil, bay leaves, origano, fruits...
Handicrafts (embroideries, baskets etc...) are
sold by peasant women in the cobbled streets.
Pensions and restaurants have been established
in some of the historic houses. There are also
a few simple restaurants where very nice gözleme
is served.
PRIENE
Ancient port of the Ionian
confederacy, today 15 km/9.5 miles away
from the sea, the splendid site of Priene is located
at the foot of Mount Mycale, and overlooks the
alluvial plain formed by the Meander
River. The site that dates back to the
5 C B.C., spreading among olive trees, is of great
interest due to the fact that it is laid out on
a grid plan ,also called hippodamian plan, named
after the architect of the city ,Hippodamus of
Miletus. The city was divided into four sections
according to cultural, political, religious and
commercial life.
The theatre , Hellenistic monument of the
second half of the 4C B.C., is one of the best
preserved ancient Greek theatres. It was renoved
by the Romans and had a seating capacity of 5,000
people. It was also used as the People Assembly
(Ekklesia).
The Bouleterion is well preserved and held
a capacity of 640 people: It was used for political
meeting as a council chamber.
The Prytaneion was the city hall.
The
Bouleterion
Temple
of Athena Polias
Hippodamian (grid) plan of the city
The Temple of Athena Poliaswho
was the protectress of the city, was rebuilt in
334 B.C. by Alexander the Great. Only a few columns
are left today.
The Agora or market square was located in
the center of the city.
